Viti Levu
Friday the 9th of February we took a taxi from Belinda’s place to the airport. The flight took a little over 3 ½ hrs, so we arrived at Nadi airport around 3 in the afternoon. After having checked out several brochures for accommodation, we decided to go to Beach Escape Villas, which was a located outside of Nadi town. The accommodation turned out to be really nice. We had our own private bungalow and the resort also had a swimming pool, bar and restaurant. It was also close by the beach.
The rest of the afternoon we spent checking out all the different options for tours. Furthermore we enjoyed the cocktails and the great food. The weather gods were not on our side (don’t know on which side they were), it was raining cats and dogs and so much more! Of course January and February are the wettest months of the year for Fiji! The temperature was nice and tropical though, well over 30 degr.
Saturday the 10th of February after a good night sleep and some breakfast we headed into town. We had just missed the bus, but on our way into town, our hostel owner passed us in his car and offered us a lift.
In town we did some Internet and walked around a bit. Nadi isn’t a pretty town. The buildings all look a bit rundown and it’s a bit messy everywhere. The people however are very friendly.
Fiji is a country with two very different cultures trying to co-exist. You have the original Fijians, and the Indo Fijians (Indian origin), the latter were brought to Fiji by the English as slaves. After slavery had ended they Indo Fijians couldn’t buy any land, so instead they became the entrepreneurs from Fiji, starting up many businesses.
The Fijians now feel that they have taken away their jobs. We noticed by walking through town that they were not very friendly towards each other. We also found the original Fijians more hospitable.
That day we also visited the Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple, the largest Hindu temple in the South Pacific. This temple was constructed and decorated in part by craftsmen flown in from India.
The colours they had used as decoration were overwhelmingly bright. While we there, we saw many Hindus bringing offerings to the gods, mostly food.
End of the afternoon we took the local bus back to New Town Beach, where our hostel was. After taking a dip into the pool, we enjoyed again a great meal and watched a DVD on a big screen in the restaurant.
Sunday the 11th of February we waited outside the hostel for the local bus, which of course didn’t come, since it was Sunday! Consequently we had to take an (expensive) taxi to the bus station. There we took the bus to Pacific Harbour on the south coast of Viti Levu. Even though the weather was still crap (it never stopped raining), we did see a lot of nice scenery during our 3 hr bus ride. It was green (of course with so much rain) and the many mountain ranges were covered with tropical rainforest. The villages we saw did however prove that the Fijians aren’t particularly wealthy. Many houses didn’t look any more than sheds on poles.
Beginning of the afternoon we arrived in Pacific Harbour, a tiny settlement on the south coast at Beqa Lagoon, famous for its diving.
We booked into a very nice backpacker’s hostel. For the first two nights we had a two bedroom apartment all to ourselves. All the rooms had different themes, ours was the jungle room, so every wall was painted or decorated in jungle style. Our balcony overlooked the beautiful pond which had gorgeous flowers in it.
That afternoon we booked two tours for the next days, a white water rafting tour in the middle of the jungle, and a dive trip. At night we had dinner outside by the pool, which also had a great bar. You could actually sit in the pool having your drink at the bar!
Monday we were picked up at 6.45 from the resort by a 4WD bus. After half an hour drive we were joined by some more people who came all the way from Nadi. We then started our drive up through the mountains on steep slippery mud roads, to where the river rafting would start.
After we had gotten our gear (helmet, life jacket and peddle), we went for a twenty minute walk through the beautiful but very wet and slippery rainforest. It looked as if the entire village had come to help with carrying the rafts up the mountain and inflating them. This didn’t automatically mean that it went any faster!
Already during our walk we had seen glimpses of the Upper Navua River running like mad because of all the rainfall. Those rapids would have been grade 6 (meaning un-raftable). Lucky for us, our trip on the river started after these particular rapids.
After all of the preparations had been completed, we got in the raft and on our way for the 24km ride down the river. The surroundings were absolutely stunning. Also the rapids (some of them grade 4) were great fun. The river went through sometimes narrow, steep gorges. We saw waterfalls everywhere (that was of course the positive side of all the rainfall). At one rapid Rolf and 2 others finally topped overboard, first time that I didn’t fall out myself!
Because of the high speed of the river, the trip didn’t take as long as promised / expected.
But the Fijians had found a solution to that problem! To prevent us from getting back home too soon, they tried to tow a truck uphill with our 4WD bus! Of course all the attempts failed miserably, causing our bus to end up in a ditch next to the gravel road, wheels deep in the mud. They then decided that it might be better to leave the truck behind (duuuhhh) and concentrate on getting the tourists out of the middle of nowhere. After 1 ½ hrs and with our help pushing, the bus finally got back onto the road, so we could start our 1 hr drive back to Pacific Harbour.
The drive back was beautiful with great views on the mountain ranges covered with rainforest.
Tuesday the 13th of February the day started with sunshine, which was very nice for a change! After breakfast we were brought to the dive school situated on a lovely canal leading to the famous Beqa Lagoon. We did two great dives that day, with a few swim-throughs which were covered in colourful soft coral, mostly fans.
When we returned from the dive trip, eager for a shower, there was no water in the entire village! This lasted until 8 the next morning. We then decided to watch a movie, but after 5 minutes also the power went dead! This had to be our lucky day! Luckily it went back on in the evening, so we did get to see the movie after all.
Wednesday we had an R&R day, which started at the lovely swimming pool with some reading, sunbathing and swimming. They weather was awesome, warm and sunny.
After our morning at the pool, we went to book some flights and accommodation. Our plan was to fly from Suva to Vanua Levu but since these flights were fully booked, we had to take the flight leaving from Nadi. We also booked our flight to Taveuni for the week after.
Thursday morning we took the first bus back to Nadi airport. There we got on the plan to what we thought would be Vanua Levu, but what they hadn’t told us that the flight would first go to Taveuni and then to Vanua Levu! Instead of a 45 min. flight, it now took us over 1 ½ hours!
Vanua Levu
Arrived at Savusavu airport we took a taxi to the Hot Springs Hotel (described in the Lonely Planet as Fawlty Towers, which is not true since it has no towers!). Again it was raining (almost getting used to it). The hotel looked pretty decent and was located a bit uphill giving a marvellous view over the bay.
Since it was already getting a bit late, we tried to organise some dive trips right away.
The dive school linked to our hotel (one of the reasons why we had chosen this hotel), had gone on holiday in November and had never returned! When we visited another dive operation in town. They were happy to inform us that they no longer did dive trips. Another lucky day for us! We finally contacted one on the other side of the island, who later that night could confirm our trip for the following day.
Friday the 16th of February we were taken to KoroSun Dive centre, situated on a gorgeous bay next to KoroSun resort, which upon investigation turned out to be well over budget for us! At the dive centre we got geared up and met our fellow divers, a group of 5 Americans. They practically ignored us during the trip, but later we learned that they were having a dispute with the owner, Colin, so they were feeling a bit upset.
The first dive wasn’t too bad (but wasn’t too great either). The current came from the wrong side of the reef, not bringing the nutrients and thus the fish to the right place. We did however see magic coral, which turns white when you touch it, really cool! We also saw many anemones and anemone fish. The second dive was much better. The visibility had improved and there were many many fish and beautiful colourful coral. We went through many sometimes narrow swim-throughs which also made it an exiting dive.
After our diving we did some shopping and then went to a local bar where we met up again with the Americans. They invited us for dinner back at the hotel. The night before they had gone spear fishing with the locals and that night the chef of hotel would prepare the fish they had caught.
We had a great time that evening with lovely food and a few drinks. The hotel also had a local band playing typical Fijian music (and drinking their special drink – Kava or grog). I also got to taste this narcotic drink – grog - made of roots and looking like muddy water.
It didn’t taste very nice, but after having drunk a cup, I couldn’t feel my lips anymore. A bit like after a visit to the dentist!
Later that evening we were joined by a lot of Fijians the Americans had met the day before. They were all very nice to us, but loved the very generous Americans!
After dinner we all went to a local night club for some more drinking and dancing. When everyone had had enough to drink (and some too much), we went back to the hotel for a late night dip in the pool.
Saturday morning we were picked up again for another dive tour. We would dive Rainbow Reef which is actually nearer to Taveuni than to Vanua Levu. It would have taken an hour and a half by boat; if Colin’s boat wouldn’t have been out of order (this was also what the dispute with the Americans had been about). Instead we now went by minivan for a 1 ½ hr drive to the east side of the island. We then got into a tiny boat, which brought us in a little over an hour to Dolphin Bay Resort. It was noon when we finally arrived here. Before starting our dives, we were first served a beautiful lunch.
Thereafter we went for two dives on the reef. The diving was amazing, beautiful hard and soft corals and gazillion fish.
After finishing our second dive, the weather had made a turn for the worse, it was raining heavily. After over an hour by boat back to the van, we were all soaked and cold. Back inside the bus for the last part of our journey, we could warm up a bit. About halfway the van slipped and got stuck in the ditch next to the mud / gravel road. We managed to push it back on to the road pretty fast though (yet another adventure!). Tired, wet and still a bit cold we arrived back at the hotel at 20:30 hrs. It had been a great day though.
Sunday the 18th of February we had an R&R day. At breakfast we met up with our American friends who were checking out. They had yet another amazing experience the night before. When they returned in their room after having had dinner, they found a security guard hanging on the railing of their balcony (4 stories high!), who had definitely been checking out their rooms and their belongings. They made him call the police, who then took statements from everybody, and took the guard with them. Luckily nothing was stolen. Just crazy that you cannot even trust the hotel SECURITY guard.
In the morning we walked through ‘town’ a bit, but like on every other island we have been to so far, Sundays are not the most happening days. Except for the shops owned by Indo-Fijians and some bars and restaurants, everything else is closed. We did however walk to the actual hot springs, not nice pretty warm pools to take a dip in, no, these were boiling hot bubbly pits where some villagers had put their food in to cook! A bit early (even for us), we ended up in the local bar.
At night we went to a Wok restaurant which served extremely good food. It took some time to get it though since all the Fijian staff members had left before the guests had. But the fish soup, the sizzling beef and the whole trout made up for all the waiting.
Taveuni
Monday we packed our backpacks and took a taxi to the airport. After the twenty minute flight we landed in Matei on Taveuni. Of course it was raining. A taxi then brought us to our resort. For the last 4 nights of our Fiji trip, we are staying in a lovely bure (traditional house).
After settling in to our little cottage (big enough to fit four people), we did some shopping in the local supermarket. The town of Matei wasn't really a town. It was more a gathering of some houses, 2 small supermarkets and some low key resorts situated around the airport. We were lucky to have chosen our resort, since it had 24 hr power (through a generator), which is pretty luxurious on an island without power. Also the dive school was situated on the resort and run by the owners cousin, which made arranging our diving pretty easy.
The remainder of the afternoon we couldn't do much since it had started to rain heavily. This lasted until late that evening.
Tuesday we got onto a boat with the dive school owner Tyrone Valentine (who comes from an ancient family on the island and has over 14.000 logged dives!). Luckily the weather had improved although there was still a lot of wind and a very strong surface current.
We did two great dives that day, which really impressed us. Under water there was practically no current, which makes diving very relaxed. The visibility was great and the quality of the hard and soft coral and the amount of fish was amazing.
Wednesday the 21st of February, after Tyrone had picked up Sue, another diver, we went by boat a bit further on to the Somosomo Strait. The weather was great, sunny and warm. Like the day before, the diving was awesome. Gazillion (I just love that word) fish and beautiful coral.
After our first dive we went by boat to a beautiful beach on the south of Vanua Levu (the second island we had visited with our Fiji trip). There we enjoyed a nice lunch and the pristine beach and warm water. After our dives in Aussie in mostly pretty cold water (to our standards), it was nice to be diving again in a 3mm suit in 29 degr.C!
Thereafter we went to do our second dive, again (yes it's getting boring) beautiful. For us Fiji definitely has a few of the best dive sites we have ever seen.
After our return end of the afternoon, we just relaxed (what else can you do) and had a few drinks on our own porch (we had found the liquor store the day before).
Thursday we didn't go diving because of the 24 hr no flying after diving rule, so instead we took the local bus (the best way to travel on the one road of the island and to meet locals), to go a conservation area on the south side of the island. As of 1998 this area is protected, so instead of the villagers logging the trees and creating plantations to earn their living, they now earn money from collecting entrance fees for the park from tourists.
After a short walk through the park we reached the first Tovoru waterfall, which was just beautiful (pretty as a picture). Since it was a beautiful but hot and humid day, we went for a swim in the crystal clear water. We also got right under the waterfall, but the force of the water (coming from 60 mtrs above), really hurt our heads (duuuhhhh).
After our swim we walked and climbed for another half hour through the rainforest to reach the second waterfall, which was also very pretty. Then another 40 min. climb on very slippery pathways and rocks and crossing the river by ropes and hopping stones, to reach the third (and last) waterfall.
After 1 1/2 hrs slipping and sliding back off the mountain, we went for another refreshing swim in the volcanic pool at the first waterfall.
We then took the bus back to Matei. On our way back we saw many small, pretty but primitive villages. Their washing machine still consists of the stones in the river with a bar of soap. The people we saw in the bus and on the streets were all very friendly and they all greeted us. So all day we were saying 'Bula Bula' (greetings and welcome!).
That evening (our last in Fiji) we went out to dinner in our own resorts' restaurant. Also here, like everywhere we have been to on Fiji), the food (fish) was excellent.
Friday morning the owner of the resort brought us to the airport for our flight back to Nadi, where we landed at 10.30. We dropped off our luggage and took the local bus back in to town. Again it was a beautiful day and consequently a bit too hot and humid to be walking through a town. In a handicraft store we bought ourselves some last souvenirs. We then took the bus back to the airport. On checking in it appeared that our Visa for Aussie had expired, so we had to request a new one on line (who said travelling was easy!). Of course the Internet booths for which we had bought a ticket weren't operational, so with our last Fijian money we bought another Internet ticket and applied and paid! for two new visas (bugger).
At 15.05 we had finally cooled off after all of the stressing with the visa application, and we boarded the plane to Sydney, were we arrived at 7.30 that night. Belinda picked us up from the airport and after dropping off the luggage at her place, we went to the Beach Road Hotel to celebrate (also with Kylee) our last night in Aussie and of our worldtrip. We had lots of bubbles and a great Vienna schnitzel (typical Aussie food.... NOT!). We finally went to bed around 4 that night.
Saturday morning, after having said goodbye to Kylee, we went out for breakfast in a lovely restaurant. Here we enjoyed the last bit of summer we were going to have. Back at Bel's place, we packed our bags. We had been a bit worried if it would all fit again, but luckily it did, after giving away some stuff...
At 3 that afternoon Belinda brought us to the airport, after first taking us to the Britz, where we accidentally had left some stuff when we returned our campervan two weeks before! We then said goodbye to Belinda and started our last, very long trip home. Unlike other times there weren't any exit row seats available, so we had to wiggle ourselves into the 'normal' seats and fold up our legs behind our ears!
After nine hours of watching movies (Qantas has a new really excellent entertaining system) and listening to some music, we arrived in Bangkok for a one hour stop-over. The next bit to London took us about 12 hours, which we also survived pretty good. After landing at London Heathrow however the problems started. The place couldn't reach the gate for whatever reason, so when we finally could leave the plane, it was already half an hour later than scheduled. The next flight however back to Amsterdam would leave in half an hour! So we ran all the way to the baggage scan dept. where our hand luggage was checked and we had to take off our shoes as well (for whatever reason). Of course (you can see where this is going), we missed our connecting flight. This was, as you probably can imagine, quite upsetting. Almost back home, but not just yet.
We were booked onto a KLM flight (which was nice especially when you know that they are not in an alliance with British Airways), leaving an hour or so later. The luggage would be shipped on the next BA flight (also a bit upsetting).
Finally arrived at Amsterdam airport and at the luggage pickup, we saw our family and friends (through the glass) waiting for us with balloons, flowers and a sign welcoming us home. We also saw our niece Stella and our nephew Sven (only 2 weeks old) for the first time! It was a bit overwhelming.
After filing a missing luggage report, we could finally go through the doors and see and hug everybody! Friends had brought Champagne which made it all very festive. It was just great seeing everybody again after having been away for a year.
The party continued at our home, which they had decorated also with a flag and many balloons. We would hereby like to thank everybody who made our homecoming so special. We couldn't have asked for a better end of the amazing trip which we have had. Thanks also for the very nice welcome home messages in our guestbook, by e-mail and by mail!
Later that evening, when everybody had left, we could only look around happily and saying to each other: its great to be back home!
Fiji has been a pleasant surprise to us both. We had expected it to be much more touristy than it actually is. There are of course some nice resorts, but none of them very high profile or more than 2 stories high. Luckily Fiji has managed to stay very authentic, with plantations and parts still with untouched rainforest. The Fijians are still mostly dependent on the land.
The lack of tourist development on some of the islands (and the disappearance of businesses overnight) does make it sometimes difficult to organise activities, but maybe this is also part of the charm. We loved the people of Fiji who are very friendly, we loved the mountains the gorges and the waterfalls and of course the amazing diving.
There is still much to be seen and do on all of the Fiji islands, so this will be a destination to return to someday! (After we have made some money in our still to be found jobs that is!).
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